Back to front page.
The cart had been in a fire and then left to rust quietly away outdoors for a number of years. The trolley consists of a pair of iron 'I' beams supporting a cast base for mounting both the pump and Lister 'B', the spec plate reads :


Spec plate

Since then it's been cleaned up and the corners repaired.
That cast iron base doesn't look much here, but is heavy enough.


Cast Iron Base Plate

Both engine and pump are well seized but the cart wheels were freed off; just pushing the cart with nothing mounted on it is hard enough, this is supposed to be a 'mobile' pumping unit, just not for the faint hearted. The cart plus wheels were wire brushed and painted before I remembered to take a photo (forgot the 'before' shot, how annoying Brains of a donkey).


Cart base

Those wheels are 23inch across, they come with greasers so making certain this heavyweight is easy to push.

Cart wheel

After destroying upteen wire brushes with acres of rusty iron I've got something to build on now, dead handy for moving around too; base now mounted on the cart.
Base on cart



Engine and pump

Gearbox Housing

Started with the pump gearbox as this seemed easy to split in two and gain access, out came about a pint of rust coloured water; seen here with red primer. After a couple of very stress relieving hours bashing away with a large hammer (OK it was made of copper) everything was separated off into component parts. Both roller thrust bearings for the worm drive were frozen solid and the sleeves for the gear wheel came off stuck to the shaft, took a bit of 'warming up' with a propane torch to persuade those off. New ones from these people (5-ways bearings).

Gearbox Innards
Bearings Came Too
Pump Body

The pump was already in bits, seen here are the main body parts 'assembled' (well, piled on one another) temporarily.

Pump Internals Operating Arm

The pump internals as found, all moving surfaces in contact with each other rusted totally solid. Out of all the grease cups only two were salvageable, the rest either sheared off needing re-tap of the hole or would not unscrew under any persuasion (soaking, heat, long levers, loud swearing etc). Diaphragm and inlet valve were missing, evaporated/burnt in the fire and long gone.


Putting it all together again - Pump

Gearbox and pump base

Not certain about those replacement Stauffer type grease cups, a bit too polished perhaps (brass); the rest have a matt black finish.

About finished

Almost there for the pump, just need to put some split pins and washers on plus find some ¾ inch Whitworth nuts to stop it all coming apart.

Pump side view

The operating arm here is obviously arranged to give a good mechanical advantage, the rubber diaphragm is quite thick (3/8) plus the weight of the castings and pumped material has to be overcome.

Pump 'mouth'

Stuck the camera inside it's mouth here and unfortunately it also shows some dust and bits in there, first whoooosh of 'sludge' will shift that. Looking at that casting in the middle seems like some sort of connecting arch has broken off, what that was originally for who knows? That piece travels up and down acting as a one way outlet valve. Some kind person mailed to say it's so an operator can lift up that centre piece by hand, I presume for clearing that stubborn bit of solid in your sludge, nice.

Efforts now turned to the engine left ignored and covered over up to this point, this had a couple of little surprises - cleaned up the plate and it's an A20C spec. First it was an industrial Lister 'A' not 'B', and it was reverse rotation. [Sod! had already bought a starting handle, exhaust flange + pipe, plus pot for a 'B', though that handle will probably turn round OK; that'll teach me] A quick word with my serial number to the expert (David Edgington) gives :
I guess the Lister replaced an original as 219792 went to Winget of Warwick for a concrete mixer, Winget took a batch--789 to 794, another pointer is Winget were one of the few to always want reverse rotation engines. Date built 19.10.31, sold 6.4.32.
so there was surprise number two, not the original purpose for that engine - recycling perhaps.

The 'before' shots - Engine

Bottom half

Bottom half of the engine and a list of problems immediately.

Putting it all together again - Engine

The crank was distorted somehow plus the mains and big end had melted so these were recovered from another wreck of an engine. The 'proper' way to do this of course, would have been to straighten the crank and have new mains and big end shells made up for that particular crank; this was a good enough compromise hopefully.


Cylinder at TDC and the small camshaft is inserted lobe upwards, plenty of moly grease oozing out used for assembly here.

Timing the valves

Bottom end in primer

To make it easier to marry engine and trolley (lifting lighter weights) it was decided to paint the bottom end, bolt it on and assemble everything on the trolley. Seen here with two coats of red primer ready for the inevitable Mid Brunswick Green. Note the modified oil sump plug that clears the crankcase with a pipe, somebody wanted to make changing the oil a little less messy.

Here is the crankcase mounted onto the trolley, the oil drain can just be seen clearing the side.

Crankcase mounted Crankcase mounted
Pump and Engine coupling

The coupling to the pump had a key driven in; so the engine could be run without the pump being connected, another was made with no taper then everything could slide up and down the shaft. A hole was drilled and tapped so a bolt could stop any movement preventing unexpected connection/disconnection of the engine and pump, it was possibly like this before the idea is just too convenient for somebody not to have made provision before.

Hopper on

The valves were ground in and re-fitted then the hopper could be put back on, valve clearance was roughly set so there was daylight - will get the feelers out later. Lots of little jobs needed now but wanted to see if it would start; once the (replacement) magneto is timed up it can be tested. Once/if it runs the fuel tank can be fitted - then a strip down to touch up all the paintwork. Did crank it round to listen for mechanical disasters and noticed no spark, the magneto was the wrong rotation so had to play with that a while to make it work. (Clockwise/anticlockwise can be made to work the other way) Very encouraged by the feeling of compression coming back up the handle.
Jobs :
  • Pipework for tank
  • Make 'bung' for top of carb
  • Water tap for hopper

Recently read a horror story of somebody topping up a carb with petrol on a running engine by pouring it in the top, they set themselves on fire; would normally do that (and will again) but that was fresh in my mind so starting is delayed while the tank got fitted. This Ewarts petrol tap was stuck in the bottom of the old tank and I thought it was a non-original replacement off a motorbike or mower.

Push fuel tap

But with the tank on it can be seen there is no room for a tap and the in-line copper pipework, so looks like the bike tap will be 'forgiven', cleaned up and got working after all. Incidentally you can still get the corks for those at these vintage motorbike people.

Tight for space

It lives!

Startup video(21Mb) Thanks to Elliot for a chain and Dave who sent a water tap (not fitted yet). Since the 'run day' bits have come off again - that leaky fuel pump has been re-packed, tank and straps taken off for painting and a carb 'bung' made to go on the end of that dangly bit of chain. Inevitable re-touches are needed to the paint because of assembly cack handedness and dinks.


Back to front page.