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So to the Lister engine rebuild, those bits need putting together to see what's missing, the obvious things have already been scrounged or made. Pictures were taken at irregular intervals, just when I thought enough had been done to show a difference.

Starting Point

The very start bits and bobs everywhere, chaos. In the background line shafting, a Fowler 1PA and at the very back another Lister 'A'. Behind the bike handlebars on the right is the head, this got liberally greased up inside the bore, then the piston with new rings shoved in for safe keeping. That is a new big end bearing, I had that made up for me; that was beyond my capabilities but I did end up turning a new small end bearing out of phosphor bronze. At the very top right the mag, the rest is on that shelf I hope. The trolley beams were made from one bit of oak from a timber reclaim yard sawn lengthways to make 4x4 inch square sections. The wheels came from either Sodbury or Enstone (can't remember) bought as rough castings with no 'ole down the middle, the axles were made at evening class/club.

Trolley Coming Together

The trolley looks promising now. The crankcase was just 'rested' on there to mark out the holes. The crank has new main bearings and was fitted, greased up and bagged to protect it some months ago - found under the bike just visible bottom of the previous picture. A petrol tank (placed on the rear), straps and mountings were homemade out of sheet copper recovered from an old water cylinder; the new ones are too thin and come covered in foam insulation. Franks tanks supplied the fuel tap and built in filter, the other fittings were unsoldered off an old and squished petrol tank.

Cooling Tank Mounting Added

The crankcase is mounted but the main effort has been the cooling tank mounting box. A metal frame was made (visible painted in 'red lead') and the wooden strips bolted on with coach bolts. The bottom of the tank rests in those grooves made with a router on the end of a bit of rope. The modern equivalent of creosote has been liberally painted on, I quite like the smell but it ruins clothes - probably find it's not as good but far less cancerous.

Valves Fitted

Valve guides, followers, push rods etc. greased fitted and timed to TDC - easy to see the crank at the moment with no head. The timing gear had a tooth missing and an auction site provided another second hand. Interesting to see what must have stopped the engine working years ago, part of a bolt from the breather was recovered (and missing tooth) from the bottom of the oil and gunge, this had a nice chunk taken out. Better view of that petrol tank too, on top is a homemade gasket ready for fitting once that face has been cleaned of over enthusiastic painting. That head in the background next job, this has had new valve guides pressed in and a good couple of hours grinding in those valves.

Head On, Tank On

A small, (cleaned out) recycled oil drum was pressed into service; the mounting rods were heated and beaten into shape blacksmith style, at the top they curl over to catch the top lip and they are threaded at the bottom. Must have done something right as that lower pipe on the tank is slightly higher than the engine one.

Looks like an engine now

The next two were taken together after great progress following a day off - always helps as the weekends seem to fill up. The water tank is plumbed in now and the carb is on plus petrol pipes, although that fuel tank paint finish is giving problems - taken off again here. Both flywheels added and governor seems to work, well when operated by hand anyway.

Mag timed, almost ready to start

Magneto on and timed up, it even has a good spark. Impatience getting the better now - with a bit of old wire for a plug lead and some petrol poured in the top of the carb I get a few farts at least.

Umbrella Needed !

Got it going for about 20 seconds, then I realised it was spitting all its water out, and what a noise. Those beams are old oak at least 3inch square but seem to have some 'give' in them somewhere; the engine and tank need to be closer together, perhaps the wheels moved in more towards the centre - some experimenting required. The height of the 'waves' gets slowly worse so something is resonating at the same speed as the engine. That tank is on a solid metal frame also supported with wood, you can't feel any play or movement.

Gentle jiggle on this one

Looks more like it.

Possible solution

By using a car jack under the centre of the beam the violent shaking seemed to be completely cured, it must be flexing in the middle. The engine ran for several hours as I tinkered with the mixture, found and fixed some small leaks. The bits of angle iron (40x40) on the floor are going to be bolted to the inside of the wooden bearer, shouldn't be seen too much and will provide extra rigidity.

Did it all go as smoothly as indicated here ?

Well, I can't take pictures despite the camera being on 'do everything'/idiot mode (it doesn't remove the clutter from backgrounds or compose shots) but they give a fairly good idea. In order of aggravation and time wasted I have :-
Finish - especially that ****ing fuel tank
It was done a dozen times, second coats would curl up, bubbles and folds would appear; tried painting in cold weather, hot, indoors, different brushes - always looked like a troubled 5 year old had done it. Rubbed that thing down 'till blue in the face.
Things always looked nice sitting on the side with freshly dried paint. Once my oily mits had fitted the item and a few knocks and scrapes applied I always seemed to be touching up.
Runs/missing bits
Solved this one by painting with a good torch to put extra illumination on the part I was doing then re-visiting the whole thing a minute or two later. Will certainly try the spray paint I found on the web; the Mid Brunswick green used is enamel and needs a special solvent to clean the brush out - yes I ran out and tried a variety of other things but nothing quite works as well. Next time I will prime everything then assemble as far as possible and paint the engine as a whole.
Made up a metal frame for the water tank and started fitting the wooded sides, worked well until the end, getting access to the end of a nut just got more and more difficult, two would clash with each other and some bolts have long sections protruding - certainly a lot more thought required next time.
As the top cap of the head that seals off the water jacket was being tightened a rush of strength and/or madness and the stud was sheared off. Drilling out and sorting out the old hole and making a new stud 'punished' me for the lapse and took ages.

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